Detail By Vinny

The OEM Paint Touch-up package is designed to repair scratches that have broken through the clear coat and have either exposed the base coat, or have gone even farther and exposed the aluminum body or plastic in bumpers, rocker panels...etc. I will now walk you though my process that will repair these imperfections with OEM quality. What sets this package apart from others is that it delivers factory results without the pain or cost of a body shop.

1. First I will examine the imperfection and assess what needs to be repainted and what I will need to tape off and cover during the process. 
2. Next I will degrease the infected area to expose the raw clear coat and leave a uncontaminated surface for me to work with.
3. Next I will sand the clear coat off of the area that I will be working on. This ensures that the paint will not blotch or bubble when applied. 
4. I will then use a much heavier sand paper to smooth the scratch out as well as any other imperfections that may have formed around the damaged area. 
5. Finally I will use a lighter sand paper to deliver a silky smooth feel to the area. This will again help the paint to bond as well as eliminate and depth issues while painting. 
6. After the sanding has been completed, I will tape off any adjacent panels. I will also use a painting mask to cover all surrounding areas to make sure there is no unwanted paint transfer. 
7. After the vehicle has been sanded and prepped, I will use an adhesion promoter to strengthen the bonding ability of the area. This will be sprayed on in a 3 phase process to ensure maximum strength. 
8. After the adhesion promoter has set in, I will apply a primer. This primer will help to mask the exposed aluminum or plastic. It will also help the paint to adhere properly without blotching or becoming thick. It will be applied in a 3-4 phase process. All very light coats to match factory depth. 
9. Once the primer has set in, I will begin to apply the base coat. This too will be applied in a 3-4 phase process, again in very thin steps. It is here where the original scratch will be completely covered and the factory depth and color will be revealed. Again, I use OEM paint, meaning it is the same exact chemical composite that the manufacturer originally used on the vehicle. 
10. Finally, I will apply the clear coat. It will be applied in a 4-5 phase process and will lock in the factory shine and protect the new paint for any of the harsh elements of the seasons. 
11. After the clear coat has set, I will use a two-phase paint sealant application to ensure maximum strength for the new paint. 
12. Finally, I will top off the new work with a hand-applied paste wax application. This will add just a little more protection to the area, and add depth to assist in the matching of the rest of the vehicle

The Leather Treatment Package is a great touch-up for the interior of a vehicle, much more advanced than a typical interior cleaning. The leather seats (or upholstery) will be completely reconditioned, as well as the dash and door panels. The process takes approximately 2-3 hours, depending on the severity of the damage. I would like to walk you through my package explaining what I do, as well as why it is necessary.

1. The first step in this package is a thorough vacuuming of the vehicle's interior. To achieve this, I first remove the car mats. I then proceed to vacuum the interior of the vehicle, both under the seats and on the seats. The dash, headboard, center console, as well as the door panels will be vacuumed as well. I then proceed to vacuum the floor mats.
   
2. Now that the carpet and upholstery have been completely vacuumed, I will clean the leather. I spray a pH balanced cleaner on a small section and work the cleaner into the leather with a non abrasive brush. This will bring the dirt out, and I simply wipe the dirt off with a microfiber towel. The reason I use a pH balanced cleaner is because it will not stain or discolor the leather, it is 100% safe.
   
3. After the leather has been cleaned I will condition it. I apply a small amount of pH balanced conditioner to a microfiber applicator pad, and work it into the leather. I then go over the same area with a clean microfiber towel. This removes any excess residue and prevents the leather from a "synthetic" shine. The conditioner I use brings back the leather's original color.
   
4. After the leather has been completely restored, I will treat the dash, center console, and door panels to a silk shine dressing. This dressing will actually be absorbed into your dash and is 100% grease free. It does not leave a false shine, but instead brings back the true rich color of the dash and other vinyl components.
   
5. The final step for the interior is cleaning the windows and mirrors. This is the final pop that leaves the interior with a brilliant finish.
   
6. After the interior leather has been completely restored, I finish with an exterior car wash. I do this because personally I believe that if you are paying for an interior detail, a car wash should come along with it. Nobody likes a spotless interior with a filthy exterior. The vehicle is not completely finished until the exterior is washed as well. This concludes my Leather Treatment Package

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Over time, headlights will become faded and will in turn make them not shine as bright as the should. This is an easy fix and takes aproximatetly 20 minutes per headlight. I would like to walk you through my Headlight Restoration Process step by step.

1. First I will degrease the headlight. This will leave a clean surface for me to work on, helping to improve the overall results.
   
2. Next I will sand the headlight using a two step process. I will first use a heavier cutting sand paper to remove the heavier build-up and oxidation. After this, I will use a lighter cutting sanding paper to finish my sanding process.
   
3. Next I will machine compound the headlight to remove the larger scratches and set up the final polishing step
4. After the headlight has been sanded and compounded, I will machine polish the headlight to remove all of the smaller scratches and leave a flawless finish
5. Finally, I will seal the headlight to help prevent any further damage. This is a two phase process and will leave the ultimate protection.

*It is important to note that some damage to plastics is not reversable, and the plastic will have to be replaced. I will notify you of this when I give you your estimate.

Tree Sap and Tar can be extremely difficult to remove and the sooner they are treated the better. This process is also used to remove paint overspray. I would like to walk you through this process step by step. 

1. First I will degrease the infected area. A degreaser will help to break down tree sap and tar, making the removal of them much easier and also minimizes the possibility of scratching the finish in the process. 
2. Next I will wash the infected area with a strong wash solution. After it has been degreased and washed, I will pressure wash the infected area. This removes any remaining debris and preps the surface for claying. 
3. Now I will clay the infected area. This should remove all tree sap and tar, but in extreme cases claying will not remove it completely. 
4. In extreme cases I will need to machine compound the infected area. This will completely remove any remaining tree sap. In 90% of tar cases, claying will be sufficient and compounding will not be needed. 
5. Now that the infection has been completely removed, I will wax the treated area. I do this because during the cleaning steps the original wax coat will be removed. 

I highly recommend adding these steps to my Paint Protection Package. Each tree sap/tar case is different and will take a different amount of time, so there is not "average" price. I will give an estimation before I work on your vehicle. 

The Exotic Wash is much more than your average car wash, it is designed specifically to wash a vehicle thoroughly without damaging the perfect finish. It is non corrosive and will not scratch or swirl the vehicle at all. Properly washing a car is vital for the appearance and overall protection of the vehicle. After a Complete Exterior Detail, one car wash can completely ruin all the work put into the vehicle, unless it is performed with perfection in mind. I would like to walk you through my Exotic Wash process step by step. 

1. First I will completely vacuum out the interior. I will not only vacuum the mats and carpet; I will also vacuum under the seats as well as on the door panels and dash board. This ensures all loose debris is removed, helping to prevent dirt from being ground in and staining. 
2. Next I will treat the dash, center console, door panels, and leather seats to a synthetic detail. This is a quick spray that will remove any new dirt as well as remove all dust. 
3. After this, I will clean the windows making sure to leave no streaks behind. 
4. This concludes the interior section of the Exotic Wash. Next, I will fill two buckets with water. One will be solid water, and the other will be water and a Glossworks Shampoo. The shampoo solution is for the exterior surface, while the solid water bucket is for the rims. This ensures that no heavy dirt from the rims will come in contact with the exterior painted surface, causing new scratches. 
5. I will then treat the tires and wheel well to an acidic solution and a heavy duty brush. This will remove all dirt that has built up. I will then treat the rims to a non-corrosive gel that will assist with removing break dust. I will use a series of brushes to remove this build-up not only on the surface of the rim, but also on the backside as well. Once the build-up has been removed, I will pressure wash the rims to reveal the clean surface. 
6. After the rims have been completely cleaned, I will move on to the exterior itself. To properly break down the exterior dirt, I will use a foam gun and a specialty shampoo. I will cover the entire vehicle in the thick foam and let it sit. This will break down the dirt without any brushes needed (which can cause micro-scratches). I then will use a detailing foam pad to wipe down the tick foam and remove the more "stubborn" dirt. Finally, I will pressure wash off the soap and debris. The shampoo will leave a gloss-like affect once pressure washed off, without leaving a cheap waxy residue.
7. After the vehicle has been completely showered down, I will dry the vehicle. First I will blow the heavy water off the vehicle. This process removes 90% of the water. To remove the next 10% I use premium microfiber towels. These towels are designed specifically to remove water without leaving fibers behind, or scratches. After the paint, windows, and rims have been dried, I will again blow dry all crevices, corners, lug nuts, tires, wheel wells, and the grille to make sure all the water has been completely dried. I also open the doors, hood, and truck to make sure no water has settled as well. 
8. After the vehicle has been completely cleaned, both inside and out, I dress the tires. I use a premium gel to dress the tires that leave a deep black color that will last for the weeks to come. This completes my Exotic Wash process. 

The Concours Exterior Detail is a complete paint correction process. This will remove all contaminates, oxidation, scratches, and even hologramming from the vehicle's finish. In most detailing processes, cover-up products are used, and in many cases damaging chemicals that provide a quick shine. This is not true of my detailing process. I do not use cover up products nor do I use damaging chemicals without properly restoring the finish afterwards. This package has helped me to win all 3 detailing competitions that I have entered in. It is designed to be the best package available, and I believe winning 3 competitions is proof in itself that there is no more thorough exterior package currently available. It is designed for exotics, but is not limited to the exotic market. I would like to walk to through my process step by step.

1. First I will completely clean the rims the wheel well. I do this by applying and acidic to solution to the wheel well and tire itself. While the acid sets in, I apply a non-acidic solution to the rim's surface and backside. I then use a series of brushes to remove dirt from the wheel well and tire. I then use a boars hair brush to remove the dirt from the surface of the rim. I do this because boars hair is completely scratch free. I then remove the break dust from the lug nuts and rim emblem. After the surface dirt has been removed, I use another brush to remove the break dust on the backside of the rim. I then pressure wash the rim and wheel well to remove the dirt and reveal the clean surface. If there is any dirt that is ground in, I will perform a Complete Rim Restoration upon request.
2. After the rims have been completely cleaned, I degrease the lower 1/4 panels. I do this because the lower 1/4 panels receive the most punishment from the road. Bugs and tar will get caked on, and degreasing these panels helps to remove these contaminate without further harming the finish. 
3. Once I have degreased the lower 1/4 panels, I pressure wash the vehicles exterior. This removes the first layer of dirt. I then soap the exterior with a degreasing shampoo. This removes any old wax coats and leaves a clean finish for me to work on. After the vehicle is completely washed I dry it with premium microfiber towels, and blow dry the crevices.
4. Now that the vehicle has been washed, I will clay the entire exterior. This removes any contaminates on the finish such as tar, tree sap, rail dust, and in early diagnosed cases, paint overspray. After claying the entire vehicle, I will re-wash the exterior to make sure any contaminates that were removed cannot scratch the finish during the polishing process. 
5. After the vehicle has been clayed, I will tape all plastic and rubber trim on the vehicle. Taping the trim prevents staining during the polishing process. 
6. (If Needed). At this point, I will address all large scratches that are not able to be worked out with a compound or polish. These need to be wet-sanded. I will spray the scratch with water and first sand using a 1500 grit sand paper. This will shave the clear coat down slightly and open the scratch for repair. I will then follow the 1500 grit sand paper with a 2500 grit sand paper. This will finish removing the heavy scratch and prepare the area for compounding. 
7. (If Needed). Now I will compound any areas on the vehicle that have heave damage. These areas include heavily oxidized sections, water spotted sections, acid stained sections, as well as areas that have been wet sanded. The compound will remove any oxidation and help repair any scratches and prepare the areas for heavy polishing. 
8. Now it is time to begin the polishing process. To polish the vehicle I work in a 2x2 square foot area making sure to take my time. I first spread the product evenly over the area, and then I break it down making sure to remove all spider marks and leave a perfect finish. On surfaces that my machine cannot reach, I perform my polishing by hand, again removing all spider marks. In this step I also polish and metals, including the exhaust tips. (In extreme cases a micro polish will not break down the scratches. These scratches are larger and need to be buffed out using a scratch and swirl compound. I will compound upon request. I will notify a customer in advance if I feel that compounding will be needed). 
9. After the vehicle has been completely polished, it is time to seal the finish. I seal the finish by applying a thin layer of paint sealant to all painted surfaces (and the rims) and let the sealant sit for 15 minutes. I then remove the paint sealant and let the finish sit for 20 more minutes. I do this to make sure the sealant has completely bonded with the finish. After it has sat for 20 minutes, I repeat the same process. I do this to ensure the strongest possible protection for the new finish. A properly applied paint sealant acts as a coat of armor for the paint, preventing new scratches from forming. 
10. Now that the finish is sealed, I add a coat of wax to leave and even brighter "pop" in the paint. It will look much richer, and protect the finish even more. You have a choice of either using a 53% carnauba paste wax, or a 59% carnauba pure brazilian paste wax.
11. After the finish has been completely corrected and sealed, I remove all excess product. I do this with a finish friendly solution and a microfiber towel. 
12. To make sure that no product is left over, I re-wash the vehicle one final time. Here I use a foam gun and a pH neutral shampoo to preserve the freshly corrected surface. I then dry the freshly washed surface with a 200mph blower making sure to for no new scratches. 
13. Now that the finish has been completed, I dress all tires and trim with a gel that brings back a rich color and shine, perfecting the detail.

This concludes the Complete Exterior Detail Process. Water and dirt will now be physically repelled from your finish, helping to prevent any future damage. The finish will literally be perfect, Perfection is an Obsession. 

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The Complete Interior Detail package is a complete restoration of the interior of a vehicle, much more advanced than a typical interior cleaning. All stains will be removed from the carpet. The leather seats (or upholstery) will be completely reconditioned, as well as the dash and door panels. The process takes approximately 4-6 hours, depending on the severity of the damage. I would like to walk you through my package explaining what I do, as well as why it is necessary. 

1. The first step in this package is a thorough vacuuming of the vehicle's interior. To achieve this, I first remove the car mats. I then proceed to vacuum the interior of the vehicle, both under the seats and on the seats. The dash, headboard, center console, as well as the door panels will be vacuumed as well. I then proceed to vacuum the floor mats.
2. After the entire vehicle has been vacuumed, it is time to shampoo the carpets. I start by vacuuming the floor mats.  I spray the mats down with a carpet shampoo. Once the shampoo has set in, I then lift the dirt and stains out via machine. I then use a wet dry vacuum to remove a majority of the water, following with a blot dry to further dry the carpets. I repeat this process to the interior carpet. I use this same process to clean and restore upholstery seats.
3. Now that the carpet and upholstery have been completely restored, I will clean the leather. I spray a pH balanced cleaner on a small section and work the cleaner into the leather with a non abrasive brush. This will bring the dirt out, and I simply wipe the dirt off with a microfiber towel. The reason I use a pH balanced cleaner is because it will not stain or discolor the leather, it is 100% safe. 
4. After the leather has been cleaned I will condition it. I apply a small amount of pH balanced conditioner to a microfiber applicator pad, and work it into the leather. I then go over the same area with a clean microfiber towel. This removes any excess residue and prevents the leather from a "synthetic" shine. The conditioner I use brings back the leather's original color.
5. After the leather has been completely restored, I will treat the dash, center console, and door panels to a silk shine dressing. This dressing will actually be absorbed into your dash and is 100% grease free. It does not leave a false shine, but instead brings back the true rich color of the dash and other vinyl components. 
6. Next, I treat the headboard with my stain removal process. When removing stains from the headboard I do not spray and scrub, this will cause the headboard to become weakened, instead I spray a stain removing solution to a microfiber towel and delicately remove stains from the headboard. This will completely restore the headboard without compromising its structure. 
7. Next, I re-vacuum the interior. This makes sure no dirt is left behind and preps the carpet to be sealed. 
8. After the carpet has dried and been re-vacuumed, I seal the carpets. I spray a sealant onto the carpet, lightly, and let it work its way in. This will prevent future stains from settling in and will make spills easy to clean in the future. (In extreme cases, I will de-oder the car to remove the smell of smoke or urine before sealing the carpets)
9. The final step for the interior is cleaning the windows and mirrors. This is the final pop that leaves the interior with a brilliant finish.
10. After the interior has been completely restored, I finish with an exterior car wash. I do this because personally I believe that if you are paying for an interior detail, a car wash should come along with it. Nobody likes a spotless interior with a filthy exterior. The vehicle is not completely finished until the exterior is washed as well. This concludes my Complete Interior Detail package. 

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Providing your paint with solid protection is absolutely vital for its life. Whether you want to remove scratches in the clear coat is optional, but you cannot neglect to properly seal you paint. To seal a vehicle's paint, you must properly prep it. This is where a clay bar comes into play. A clay bar removes any contamination from the clear coat and preps the paint to be wax, or waxed and sealed. If a vehicle is not clayed, the wax or sealant will not work properly and will deteriorate at an excessively fast pace. Sealing your paint before you wax it is optional, however I highly recommend it. Waxes tend to deteriorate after 3-5 months, whereas a paint sealant will provide a coating of armor to your clear coat and won't begin to break down for over a year. Now I would like to walk you through my Paint Protection Package, step by step. 

1. Before you can clay, seal, and wax a vehicle, it must be washed. When I wash the car in this process, I use a degreasing shampoo. This helps to remove built up bugs and leftover deteriorating waxes. While washing the car, I also make sure to remove all break dust from the rims, both on the surface and behind the rim. 
2. (Recommended) After the car has been washed and dried, it is time to clay the car. A clay bar treatment is absolutely vital before waxing or sealing a car. A clay bar helps to remove any contaminates, such as rail dust, paint overspray, tree sap, and tar. To clay a vehicle, I work half a panel at a time. I start by spraying the panel with a lubricant, this helps the clay bar to move freely and not damage the paint's finish. I then clay the car. After the car has been clayed, it is smooth to the touch and is a perfect surface to seal and wax. While claying a car, I also clay the exhaust pipes to remove oxidation and build-up, prepping them for a metal polish. 
3. (Recommended) After the car has been clayed, it is ready to be sealed. A paint sealant acts as a coat of armor that lasts for over 1 year. It is the strongest protection currently available on the market today, and when topped with a coating of wax, will leave a level of shine and protection that cannot be matched. To seal a vehicle, I apply a thin coating of paint sealant to the car's finish. I do this using my polishing machine. This helps to make sure the coating is applied evenly and isn't too heavy or too light on one side. Once the paint sealant has been applied, I let it sit for 15 minutes. This helps the sealant to bond with the paint. I then remove the sealant and let the vehicle sit for 20 minutes. This again helps the sealant to set in. After the vehicle has sat for 20 minutes, I repeat my process. I do this to ensure the paint sealant is working at its maximum ability and doesn't have any weak spots.
4. Now it is time to wax the car. I wax the vehicle by hand, as opposed to with a machine. As the owner you have the choice of using a 59% carnauba pure Brazilian paste wax, or a 53% carnauba paste wax. I coat the entire vehicle and let the wax haze. Once the wax has hazed, I remove it using a premium microfiber towel. You have the option to double the wax coat. 
5. After the car has been waxed, I treat all rubber and plastic trim with a gel that will restore its original rich color. This will help the car to "pop" even more and look absolutely amazing. This concludes the Paint Protection Package process. 

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In my professional opinion there is nothing more impressive than opening up the hood and seeing an engine in mint condition. With that said, I would like to walk you through, step by step, my Engine Detailing process. 

1. Before I can begin working on an engine, the engine needs to be cooled down. A hot engine will dry the degreaser too fast, and will in turn stain the engine bay components. If the engine is too warm, I place fans both above and below the engine bay to help speed the cooling process. The engine can be warm to the touch, but not hot. Once the engine has cooled I can begin the actual work. 
2. Once the engine is warm to the touch, I place a bag over the alternator and if the air filter is exposed, I place a bag over it as well. These are the only engine bay components that are not designed to get saturated with water. Next, I seal any exposed wires with a liquid sealant. This is not necessary because the wires are pre-coated and designed to be water proof, but in some cases this coating fails. This water prevention method ensures that no damage can be done to the engine during the detailing process.
3. After then engine bay has been prepped, I apply an acidic based degreaser to the engine bay. This is the strongest degreaser currently available on the market  I use the strongest possible degreaser when working on the engine bay, because as you probably know, nothing gets dirtier or greasier than the engine bay, and in many cases it hasn't ever been cleaned before.
4. After the degreaser has sat for a few minutes and begun to break into the build-up, I begin brushing the hood. On the painted surfaces of the hood I use a boars hair brush to remove the build-up, this prevents scratching the finish. If there is a fire pad under the hood, I scrub that with a stiff bristled brush to break free the incredibly ground in dirt. 
5. After the build-up from the hood has been removed, it is time to remove the build-up from the firewall. I use a special series of brushes the remove this build-up because space is very limited from behind the engine. 
6. Finally it is time to remove the build-up from the engine bay itself. I again use a very special set of brushes to perform this task. I remove the build-up not just on the surface, but also on the side of the engine and given engine components. If accessible, I remove the buildup from the underside of these components as well. 
7. After the entire engine bay has been degreased and scrubbed down, I pressure wash the engine bay to remove the degreaser. When pressure washing, I use a very light pressure. This ensure that no electric wires are damaged in the washing process. 
8. Next it is time to dry. I remove the bags from the alternator and exposed air filters and start the engine. I let the engine run for 3-5 minutes. This helps break free some of the sitting water and also warm it up, making it easier to dry. After I turn the engine off, I blow dry the engine making sure not one drop of water is left behind. The top, bottom, and sides of the engine bay will be completely dry, this makes sure the dressing will perform at its highest level. 
9. After the engine bay has been dried, it is time to polish any paint and metal surfaces in the engine bay. This brings back an immediate shine to the engine and many of its components. 
10. Finally, I apply a gel to any plastics and rubber in the engine bay. This brings back a rich shine and color to the previously faded engine bay and its the final step in my Engine Detailing Process. 

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I am going to walk you through my Complete Rim Restoration process. On average a Complete Rim Restoration will take two hours per rim from start to finish. The steps go as follows:

1. The tire and wheel well will be sprayed with an acidic solution. This solution will eat at ground in dirt and break dust that has accumulated over the years. It is the most powerful solution on the market today, however, it will not discolor the tire or wheel well. This is the product's most remarkable feature. Other products delivering this strength will fade the trim, but my product will not. I will let the solution sit while I move on to the second step.
2. As the acidic solution eats away at the break dust and dirt. I will treat the rim itself to a non-corrosive acidic solution. This solution is safe for all rim finishes (painted, metallic, flat, alloy, metal, and chrome). In severe cases, I will replace this non-corrosive acid with an actual acid, diluted to the proper strength. I will only use the acid on chrome, alloy, or metal rims. After I spray the solution, I will let it sit for five minutes as it works its way past the buildup.
3. After the solutions have worked to their fullest extent, I will bring out my specialty brushes. I will begin with cleaning the tire and wheel well. These brushes are very rough and break away any leftover caked on dirt. Next, I will use a boars hair brush to clean the rim itself. Every lug nut and bolt will be delicately worked as well as the face of the rim. After the face has been cleaned, I will bring out yet another brush to reach the backside of the rim. This brush is flexible yet tough to remove the "hidden" buildup that most other brushes cannot.
4. As all of the break and dirt buildup have been removed, I will pressure wash the solution away. This pressure washer will shoot out water at a powerful 2000psi. After I pressure wash the rim and wheel well, I will dry the rim with a 200mph blower, making sure to get water out of every crevice.
5. Now the rim is ready to be clayed. I will use a lubricant to prep for the clay bar. Then I will clay the rim, working in small sections at a time. After I have finished claying, I will pressure wash the rim and dry it again. This helps by removing and free moving buildup that can potentially scratch the finish during the polishing process.
6. After the rim has been clayed, it is time to polish. I use a specially designed rim and metal polish. The polish will remove any oxidation and bring back depth to the rims finish. I start off polishing with a machine. This will deliver a large amount of power to the rim, obliterating and oxidation or water marks.
7. After I have machine polished the rim, I will move on to hand polishing. I have several specialty sponges and q-tips that will enable me to get into the hard to reach spaces. This is great for removing oxidation and buildups in the lug nuts. After I have finished the second polishing phase, I will use specialty microfiber towels to remove the excess residue without scratching the new finish.
8. The final step in the correction process is sealing the rim. There are two options when it comes to sealing the rim. I use either a rim sealing wax, or a paint sealant, depending on your preference. I do this last step by hand, to ensure the quality of the finish. I let the wax sit for fifteen minutes to haze before removing it. If I am using my paint sealant, I will apply the paint sealant and let it sit for one full hour before buffing it off. This will form the strongest bond with the rim possible. 
9. Finally, I will use a black restoration gel to restore the deep black shine to the wheel well and the tire. This concludes my Rim Restoration process. 

Below are a pair of before and after pictures of one of the rims I restored.

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